YOU'RE EASY TO LOVE:
MEXICO
CITY
WORDS BY
ABIGAIL SPENCER
Introducing the innaugral edition of our new
floral-inspired travel series.
"Why are you in Mexico City?”
I heard this question no less than 17 times as I traipsed through the mysterious mecca that has the inklings of if Paris and Los Angeles had a bebe'. Friends who didn’t know I was going. New friends who wondered about my wanderings. I asked myself this, too. “Why am I in Mexico City?” In truth, I had never been, except for a long layover years ago coming back from a Costa Rica Surf Trip where myself and a previous fella spent the day at the Teotihuacan Pyramids, stumbled into a full Mezcal tasting fest, boozily two-stepped the pyramids, left with too many panchos and called it a Mexico City day. I had to return. Properly.
As it unfolded, my dear friend Katharina Mccarty had just opened her 8th House Art Gallery, branching off from her years in NYC. I wanted to spend time with Katie and take in the scene. We also get a lot of requests at County Line Florals to open in Mexico City. I was curious: why? I wanted to sniff it out. My son was going off for ten days with his father for their Spring Break, so I decided to go on my own Rumspringa (or TequilaSpringa, rather) and see what this growing food/art/floral/cultural epicenter was all about.
This was going to be my first time traveling solo + internationally since the pandemic began. Pre-pandemic travel was like breathing. A stark shift in my life. The stillness was necessary. I birthed my long-time dream County Line Florals, got to be with my son in those too hard middle school years, and found my way to Ojai where I live part time now. But the Travel Siren sounded and it was time to pop my post-pandemic-travel-cherry. Why not Mexico City? Straight flight from LA. A friend. And a floral dream.
"
I had to return.
Properly.
So with Katie on the ground, a Four Seasons hotel room awaiting, my Cuyana travel gear, plus a carousel of Frida-inspired dresses: I booked a trip last minute. Leaving room for magic. Feel the city for myself. And plant some seeds.
Here’s what unfolded. Mexico City did not disappoint.
EVENING 1
Four Seasons: Since this was my first International travel in two years, there were some questions around if I would feel safe. A unanimous yes. The Four Seasons held impressive covid protocols and is also an official testing spot for International Travel. If I had my mask off for a second I was asked to put it on and I had my temperature taken at every arrival. I am so grateful!
Quick Change: From travel gear of a Celine jacket, Agolde Jeans, Buck Mason Tee, and Cuyana Travel Gear into a Matteau Fringe dress and Saint Laurent Tuxedo Jacket with Khaite boots and Isabel Marant belt and Celine suede fringe bucket purse.
Huset: This was our first foodie destination. With my trusted guides, Katie and my make up artist Bethany who was also in town, we gathered for my first MC dining experience. Holy Toledo, Huset. Felt like quintessential Mexican flavor with a modern mindset. The wood flanked bi-level, foodery was delicious. Clean eco-conscious design. The classico-margarita sucre sin with the mole plantain, ginger rice and seabass were excellente. Incredible first meal in my new town.
DAY 2
I slept 11 hours the first night. If nothing else happened, I came to Mexico City for that sleep. Credit to the FSMC: the room is cool, the blackout shades are incredible, it was deftly silent and I could not believe how long I slept. The trip was already a success! With all this rest I decided my first order of business was to walk the town, get my bearings and get my hair did. Pro-tip: I always get my hair blown out right before a flight or when I land so I don’t have to fool with my hair the rest of the excursion. Highly recommend it!
Lardo: After my solo walkabout, I met Katie at Lardo. This gorgeous street corner bistro’s main event is inside-out and top-to-bottom covering in Fauna. All greenery. It’s a delicious late afternoon drink/app spot. Get the two salads and the peppers with the margarita sans sucre! The sweetest spot for an afternoon salude. We ran into two friends who ended up being our Mexico City adventure companions. Producer Aaron and Marketing Mike. Our twosome expanded.
Quick Change: Celine dress.
Rosetta: This is Katie’s favorite restaurant in MC. I now know why. In the middle of Roma, it also leads with fauna. This tri-level restaurant embraces and reimagines the old world structure. Each room offers a different wallpaper. The top-level bar with verandas is a gorgeous romantic spot to meet for a drink while you wait for your alfresco dining experience. The gorgeous dinnerware can all be sold at their little bodega next door. The popcorn appetizer and olives are a surprise. They serve their margaritas martini style. The mariachi street performers are surprisingly un-shy. Be ready to be serenaded. And the gnocchi with vegetables is unreal. Three for three meals in MC. Did not disappoint.
Tokyo Music Bar: Our new friends were waiting for us at Tokyo Music Bar (@tokyomusicbar), a Hi-Fi Analog Audio Cocktail Bar. This space is a true speakeasy that mixes Fear and Loathing with a Silencio twist (David Lynch would approve.) The DJ is literally playing records. It's a slim, dimly lit, second story woodclad bar that is the perfect late night gathering spot. A trippy experience when a gaggle of Aaron’s friends joined and I happened to know two of the gals! It’s that moment on an adventure where you realize you are exactly where you are supposed to be.
Day 3
Driver: It’s a common practice to hire a driver to get around. The city is spread out and if you have a lot of destinations and desires, it’s an investment worth making. Knowing we were flower marting this morning and who knows what floral purchases or finds might ensue, our new friend Luis, was our driver/bodyguard for the day. The right call!
Mercado Jamaica: Decked in my glorious Vita Kin Avalon Maxi Dress, I arrived. No words to describe this fountain of Flora. Open 24 hours a day, it was this Florista’s dream come true. Perusing the hundreds of vendors I wanted to get a sense of the resources, pricing, offerings. The belladonnas were truly off the charts. The Jasmine was in full bloom. The various greens, tropical and otherwise, were outstanding with a few new faunas I had never seen. I noticed the smaller vendors on the outskirts held more of the interesting fare. Good. To. Know. Ideas abound.
We swing by 8th House to arrange our floral finding for Katie’s opening the next eve. Was fun to do some Florista-ing on my journey. Always a joy.
Quick Change into the perfect red emoji dress by Alejandra Alonso Rojas
PRIM: There was a showing of an emerging artist, Samuel de Saboia, at PRIM which is a hybrid hotel, event and gallery space and artist-in-residency curator. PRIM (@prim_mx) is a cultural center whose mission is to celebrate culture and creativity and to inspire the union of people and projects. This building is incredible. Multi levels of dilapidated beauty. The faded sea green walks, open skylight through the four floors. Roof top and room upon room of tiled spaces to explore felt like my inner color palette expressed.
Samuel de Saboia: This Brazilian painter is the featured artist at PRIM. You may know them from Calvin Klein & Commes fed Garcon ads, but Samuel might be the next big thing. Their abstract spiritual pieces and cross cultural references reflect the conscious expansion of what’s next. They were showing pieces they painted in LA, new pieces painted in Mexico City the past months (some were still drying) and preparing for their Ibiza hotel residency excursio. HABITAR is the artist residency that Paige Haran and Adrian de Banville run here in Mexico City. Samuel is their first artist in residence. Additionally, Prim hosted Samuel during his residency and the OPEN STUDIO event we went to. A multi-talented and a new friend.
"
They kept saying: Mexico City is Los Angeles meets Paris.
We shall see.
Taverna: Downstairs and over an indoor walk bridge is a surprising Mediterranean flavored bar/restaurant by the name of Taverna. We sat there more out of convenience than recommendation. We were famished and there were two spots at the bar, then learned our friends were joining so we expanded our table to the downstairs area where a dagger-ly wood art installation hung over our heads.. The music was wonderful, rediscovering Shazaam to place the french flare: You must get the hummus and spiced crispy pita. The cauliflower and kale salad was the best I’ve ever had. The meals just kept getting better. My newly minted gastro heart was on fire! (Antacids unneeded)
Club San Luis: Salsa. Salsa. Salsa. The rest of the gang from the previous eve had planted themselves at the best Salsa club in the city. Club San Luis is quintessential Salsa Club. The perfect mix of hi-lo. The band was fabulous and understood the assignment. We danced for hours and luckily one of my dance partners was a pro. I somehow ended up wearing the perfect Red Emoji dress. And we salsa’d till the wee hours.
Day 4
Hule: The coffee and garden breakfast vibes at the Four Seasons are lovely but if you’relooking for something more neighborhoody, visit Hule. In the eve, the indoor coffee haven turns into a Parisian speakeasy playing the records they decorate with. Adorned with pebble flooring and Oaxacan planters; if you have a mid morning work session, it’s a lovely place to land.
Contramar: My Mexico City trip would not be complete without visiting the Pescatarian foodery Contramar. I pivoted my day to make sure to experience the fresh fish fare. Al Fresco again, the guacamole, the sans sucre margarita and the Polo Abolindas Fish Tacos were off the charts. The Suits fans were in full effect. Thank you all for being so sweet!
8th House Gallery Viewing: At this contemporary art gallery in Mexico City, Shadow of Action, a two-person exhibition with works by Aaron Garber-Maikovska and Lili Reynaud-Dewar is on view from April 4 - May 1, 2022. The title borrows from a line in Italian writer and filmmaker Pier Paolo Pasolini’a 1957 poem, The Ashes of Gramsci. Combining movement and protest against the conglomerate, 8th House is the place to be (@8thhouseprojects). Katie curated a fun evening at her outdoor gallery space with the pink garage door. CLF flowers accented a meaningful, good time had by all.
Siesta and Quick Change: Khaite Dress and Free People sandals.
8th House Gallery Viewing: At this contemporary art gallery in Mexico City, Shadow of Action, a two-person exhibition with works by Aaron Garber-Maikovska and Lili Reynaud-Dewar is on view from April 4 - May 1, 2022. The title borrows from a line in Italian writer and filmmaker Pier Paolo Pasolini’a 1957 poem, The Ashes of Gramsci. Combining movement and protest against the conglomerate, 8th House is the place to be (@8thhouseprojects). Katie curated a fun evening at her outdoor gallery space with the pink garage door. CLF flowers accented a meaningful, good time had by all.
Siesta and Quick Change: Khaite Dress and Free People sandals.
Santo Hand Roll Bar: Sushi and Dancing? Don’t threaten me with a good time. Word on the street was DJAKE was spinning on literally the street. Post viewing, we found ourselves Disco-ing and Sushi-ing. It was a little sushi/dancing street party. Roma was growing on me. A perfect date destination for something low key and high vibe.
Day 5
Maximo: Camilla Marcus of west~bourne only gave me one recommendation: MAXIMO BISTRO. Alright already. I trust Camilla’s taste buds completely. Thank God we were able to get a siesta reservation and have the meal of our lives. The service, cohesive space experience and specials were next level. It felt like everything was leading to this moment. AND I ran into another friend. Thank you, Maximo!
Hotel Carlota: New friends gathering alert. Outside the Four Seasons or some special Airbnb finds: another more Brooklyn, hipster-y option is Hotel Carlota. A great city gathering place poolside for large groups and for understated glamour.
The Angel of Independence: In the center of town. A must see. Self explanatory. Project onto her what you need to be free of…
JAZZATLÁN: @jazzatlancapital This place. La La Land meets Lady Sings the Blues. Don’t miss this rotating bar/restaurant/jazz super star of a landing spot. No greater way to say adios to this blessed town than a final eve of feeling it all. The musician’s on fire. Samuel got up and let it all out. End on a high. OR a high note.
My next stop: Punta Mita to soak up the sun and the beach. Not without adding the Frida Kahlo Museum, The Canals, and Elly’s to my Mexico City trip dos To-Do!
What else do you recommend? Let me know the places I missed in Mexico City. I would love to hear from you.